An early transfer to the domestic terminal for the spectacular mountain hop from Pokhara to Jomsom (~2,780m), gateway to the wind-sculpted Kali Gandaki gorge and the fabled Upper Mustang Trek. On a clear morning, the serrated walls of Nilgiri, Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas feel almost within reach as the aircraft threads the valleys and touches down on Jomsom’s stony runway.
Mountain flight note: Morning departures are preferred before valley winds strengthen. Schedules are weather-dependent. Domestic baggage limits can be strict—keep power banks, cameras and essential meds in your carry-on; stow trekking poles and liquids in checked baggage.
Boots laced, we strike out from Jomsom along the broad, pebbly banks of the Kali Gandaki. The trail is initially easy and relatively flat, crossing tributaries on small bridges and passing the hamlet of Ekle (Eklo) Bhatti (~2,740m) before the ochre and whitewashed houses of Kagbeni (~2,810m) appear like a mirage at the confluence. We pause here for lunch—look north for stirring views towards the restricted Kingdom of Mustang.
Permit checkpoint: Beyond Kagbeni lies the controlled entry to Upper Mustang. Have your Restricted Area Permit and ACAP ready for inspection at the check-post before continuing up-valley.
Fed and rested, we continue beside the riverbed—black shale and silver braids of water—through Tangbe, its narrow lanes edged with chortens, prayer wheels and apple orchards, then onward to Chhusang (Chuksang) (~3,250m). The canyon walls glow rust-red in late light; caves pepper the cliff faces, and the wind carries the dry scent of the rain shadow. Today is a long but rewarding first stage, typically around 7 hours of steady trekking door to door.
Altitude & pacing: Start ~2,780m (Jomsom) → lunch at 2,810m (Kagbeni) → overnight ~3,250m (Chhusang). Net gain ~+470m with gentle gradients. Hydrate regularly, protect against sun and wind, and keep a comfortable, conversational pace.
Trail highlights: Broad river terraces of the Kali Gandaki, suspension crossings, the medieval lanes of Kagbeni, whitewashed chortens of Tangbe, ochre cliffs and cave dwellings en route to Chhusang—a first taste of Mustang’s stark, trans-Himalayan beauty.
Today at a glance: Fly Pokhara → Jomsom (morning) → Trek Jomsom – Ekle Bhatti – Kagbeni (lunch) – Tangbe – Chhusang • ~7 hours total • Mostly easy, flat early section • Max altitude ~3,250m • Overnight in Chhusang.