Day 13 : HWANGE NATIONAL PARK: ELEPHANT HERDS, LION PRIDES & CLASSIC AFRICAN PANS
Today you venture into one of Africa’s great wildlife strongholds: Hwange National Park, the largest game reserve in Zimbabwe and renowned for its prolific elephant, lion and wild dog populations. After an early breakfast on Rovos Rail, you disembark near the park’s boundary and board open 4x4 safari vehicles. The morning air is cool, the sky a pale wash of colour, and there is an immediate sense of anticipation: out here, every track in the sand and every distant call could signal an encounter with some of Africa’s most iconic species.
Your full-day game drive takes you deep into Hwange’s mosaic of open grasslands, teak and acacia woodland, mopane scrub and natural waterholes known as pans. With an experienced guide at the wheel, you bump along sandy tracks and skirt the edges of broad plains where antelopes, zebras and giraffes graze, always alert for predators. Hwange is especially famous for its huge herds of elephants, and it’s not uncommon to see family groups emerging silently from the trees, calves tucked close to their mothers, or to watch them gather in large numbers around pans to drink, bathe and socialise. The low rumble of their communication, the clash of tusks between young bulls, and the sight of an old matriarch leading her clan are memories that linger long after you leave.
As the drive continues, your guide scans the terrain for signs of lion and other predators. Fresh paw prints etched into the sand, alarm calls from impala, or vultures circling overhead can all point towards recent activity. You may find a pride sprawled in the shade after a night’s hunt, cubs tumbling over one another while lionesses doze, or a male lion patrolling his territory along the edge of the road. Hwange also offers a real chance of encountering African wild dogs, one of the continent’s most endangered carnivores. If you are lucky enough to find a pack, you’ll see how they move with fluid coordination, trotting in loose formation along the tracks or resting in the cover of bushes, always aware, always alert. Alongside these headline species, the park supports buffalo, spotted hyena, cheetah, sable and roan antelope, kudu, wildebeest and an impressive variety of birds, from lilac-breasted rollers to martial eagles and kori bustards.
Mid-morning, you pause at a viewpoint or picnic site to stretch your legs, enjoy refreshments and take in the silence broken only by birdsong and the rustle of the wind. Your guide uses this time to share insight into Hwange’s conservation story: how artificial waterholes (pumped pans) help sustain wildlife through the dry season, the work of rangers in anti-poaching patrols, and the delicate balance between supporting large elephant populations and protecting vegetation for other species. As you drive on, you’ll notice how life clusters around the pans – herds waiting their turn to drink, elephants splashing, birds flocking to the shoreline – and how the rhythm of the bush is dictated by access to water, especially in the drier months of the year.
Lunch is usually taken in the bush (as a picnic) or at a simple lodge or camp inside or near the park, depending on the day’s arrangements. Sitting under a spreading tree or on a shaded terrace, you can eat as you look out over a waterhole or open plain, watching wildlife come and go while you pause. This mid-day break is a chance to absorb the setting at a slower pace, to ask questions about behaviour and ecology, or simply to savour the feeling of being in the middle of one of southern Africa’s classic safari landscapes, far from cities and main roads. As the heat builds, predators often retreat to deeper shade, but herbivores continue to move and feed, giving you ample opportunity to spot species you might have missed earlier in the morning.
In the afternoon, as the sun begins to dip and the light softens into gold, you set off again for another loop through the park. This is often one of the best times of day for photography and sightings: elephants silhouetted against the sky, giraffes feeding from treetops, hippos yawning in sunlit pools, and perhaps a lion pride stirring from its daytime rest as the temperature drops. The scent of dust and dry grass hangs in the air, bird calls change as daytime species quieten and nocturnal ones begin to stir, and you may find yourself pausing at a pan simply to watch the elephant-herds and other animals gathering at dusk, the surface of the water reflecting pastel skies. If conditions and regulations permit, your guide might linger just long enough to see the first stars appear before heading back towards the park boundary.
By late afternoon or early evening, you leave the park and return to Rovos Rail, your head full of images and your camera card likely overflowing with Hwange safari moments. Back on board, you have time to freshen up before afternoon tea and cocktails in the lounge or observation car. As the train prepares for its onward journey, you can watch the last light fade over the bush, the silhouettes of trees and distant hills merging into the dark as the first village lights blink into view. Dinner is served in the dining car, another multi-course meal accompanied by carefully chosen wines (where offered) and the gentle movement of the train. Conversations at neighbouring tables often turn to the day’s sightings: the size of the elephant herds, the intensity of a lion’s gaze, the thrill of watching wild dogs on the move. Later, you retire to your suite, falling asleep to the steady rhythm of the rails and the lingering sense of having spent a day in one of Africa’s truly remarkable wildlife sanctuaries. Overnight on Rovos Rail. (Meals: B, L, D)