Day 13 : LHONAK → PANGPEMA (KANCHENJUNGA NORTH BASE CAMP, 5,143M): HIGH BALCONY ON THE WORLD’S THIRD HIGHEST PEAK)
We set out early from Lhonak, following lateral moraine and sandy flats along the Kanchenjunga Glacier. The tread undulates over stony ribs and short scree ramps, gradually climbing to the high terrace of Pangpema—the Kanchenjunga north side base camp. As height builds, the skyline unfurls a pageant of summits: Tent Peak, Nepal Peak, Cross Peak, the Twins, and—commanding the horizon—the colossal mass of Kanchenjunga itself. This is a banner day of the Kanchenjunga trek and a defining moment of trekking in Nepal.
Trail facts (approx.): 8–10 km • 3.5–5 hours to Pangpema • Net ascent ~300–450m (from ~4,750–4,800m at Lhonak to 5,143m) • Underfoot: moraine ribs, gritty singletrack, sandy flats, short scree traverses, occasional braided stream crossings.
With each rise the views amplify: knife-edged ridges, serac-jagged icefalls and the long grey sweep of lateral debris guiding us to base camp. In clear weather, the amphitheatre is breathtaking—Tent Peak poised like its namesake, Nepal Peak and Cross Peak braced behind, the Twins lifting to 7,351m, and the immense north walls of Kanchenjunga dominating the skyline.
Altitude & pacing: Keep the pace conversational; breathe unhurriedly. Hydrate steadily and snack little-and-often. Watch for AMS signs (headache, nausea, dizziness, unusual fatigue). If symptoms persist, alert the leader and descend—safety first.
Daypack today: 2–3L water + electrolytes, windproof/waterproof shell, warm mid-layer, insulated hat & gloves, sun cream & UV sunglasses (glacier glare), lip balm, personal meds, blister kit, headlamp, trekking poles, and dry bags for phone/camera.
We reach Pangpema (5,143m) by early afternoon and take time to absorb the panorama, photograph the glaciers and quietly savour the immensity of these walls. As the sun tilts west, the faces ignite—gold on rock, blue in shadow, wind banners streaming from the crests.
Overnight at Pangpema: Expect a basic lodge/teahouse or camp (as arranged), cold night temperatures and limited facilities. Layer up early, keep water bottles insulated, and organise your kit for a smooth start tomorrow.
As night settles at base camp and the air turns crystalline, you’ll feel the rare stillness of high Himalaya. This is the roof of the trek—a place to move gently, breathe deeply and let the grandeur of Kanchenjunga imprint itself on memory.