Leaving Kutumsang behind, today’s trail pushes north into a wilder, more mountainous realm. Terraces and farmsteads thin out as you climb steadily into a rhododendron and pine forest that feels both ancient and serene. The ascent draws you up onto the long back of the Panghu Danda, where cool shade, birdsong and the soft give of moss underfoot set the pace for a measured, oxygen-friendly rhythm above the 3,000m mark.
Here the ridge-crest is densely wooded—rhododendron flaming in season, pine resin sweet on the air. Between the trees lie secluded pastures and simple seasonal shelters known as goths; views drop away only in brief windows, hinting at the deep valleys flanking either side. You pass the cluster of lodges at Mangengoth (3,220m), a welcome place for tea and a breather, before the path tips back into forest and climbs again onto the airy spine locals call the Thare Danda.
As height builds, the world widens. Layer upon layer of blue ridges step away to the horizon, and on a clear day the skyline pulls in distant celebrities—the ice-bitten silhouettes of the Rolwaling and even the far Khumbu ranges. Underfoot, the trail threads between knolls and saddles, linking abandoned goths and rough clearings. The forest shifts to a pungent mosaic of juniper, berberis and spruce, with deep beds of moss and whimsical curtains of lichen swaying in the breeze.
Although the distance isn’t huge, altitude makes itself known; you keep a steady, unhurried cadence, pausing often to sip water and take in the views. By early afternoon you crest into Tharepati (3,490m), a high saddle scattered with lodges and prayer flags, perfectly positioned for brilliant sunsets and a crystalline night sky. Settle in, warm your hands around a mug of tea, and look ahead towards the rugged uplands of Gosainkund and the route that leads to the Laurebina La.
Trek facts: Start Kutumsang 2,470m → Finish Tharepati 3,490m; net gain ~1,020m. Typical hiking time 5–7 hours at a relaxed, acclimatisation-friendly pace; cumulative ascent ~1,100–1,300m, minor undulating descents along the ridge.
Travel notes: You’ll be trekking mostly above 3,000m; maintain an easy pace, hydrate well (carry 2–3 litres per person) and watch for early AMS symptoms (headache, nausea—advise your guide). Forest sections can be cool and damp; pack a warm mid-layer and a waterproof even on clear mornings. Lodges at Mangengoth and Tharepati are simple—carry small NPR notes for tea, snacks, charging and hot showers (optional at extra cost). Mobile signal can be patchy; a power bank is useful. Please pass stupas clockwise and leave goths undisturbed. In the main trekking seasons (Mar–May; Oct–Nov), trails are busiest around midday—starting early keeps climbs cooler and quieter.